Textiles

A Berber fringed -handira-, cape or shawl from M'Tougha in the Moroccan High Atlas mountain range. It is handwoven in natural undyed wool. Cotton weft. The distribution of its black and white stripes yet simple is very apealling. This kind of pieces is usually used as blankets as well as outer garments to withstand the freezing nights in the High Atlas. 

A  woman's shawl, cape or -handira- from the High Atlas, though the use of these capes has extended to some areas of the High Atlas as well. It combines handwoven natural undyed wool and cotton. It features very distinctive decorative stripes and long cotton fringes or pile. Distinctive sequins have been added. Nowadays it would be used during special gatherings and festivities where the women, dancing together, make a magical sound by ratling their jewellery and the sequins themselves!. 

A  woman's shawl, cape or -handira- from the High Atlas, though the use of these capes has extended to some areas of the High Atlas as well. It combines handwoven natural undyed wool and cotton. It features very distinctive decorative stripes and long cotton fringes or pile. Distinctive sequins on cotton threads have been added. Nowadays it would be used during special gatherings and festivities where the women, dancing together, make a magical sound by ratling their jewellery and the sequins themselves!. 

A floor cushion made from selected fragments of an old Moroccan Berber haïk. A -haïk-, -hayk-, -haik- or -tahraoukht-, is an outer garment used by the different Berber tribes as part of their attire. It may come in many sizes and the way to wear it can vary a lot depending on the are and the needs of the wearer, for example, as a cape or as a sort of veil to cover head and face.Filling not included.

A handmade artisan flatwoven rug or -hanbel- from the Berber tribe of the Beni M'tir or the Beni Mtir, inhabiting areas of the western Middle Atlas mountain range in Morocco. Their flatwoven textiles made of wool and cotton evidence an oustanding mastery of weaving techniques as well as a  worth-admiring decoration, minute, precise and full of motifs that, as if it were a book, reflect the vastness and richness of Berber symbology.

These Berber artisan handmade flatwoven kilim-type textiles or -hanbel- from the Valley of the Ourika in the Moroccan High Atlas are quite a discovery. That is so not only because of their beauty and originality but also because they were quite unknown to most about little more than a decade ago. They are locally known as -lahmal- or -sachou- and they are made of sheep wool.  Their most characteristic features are the horizontal stripes and, most of all, that sort of lentil or protective eye decorative motif, called -ayyour-. The oldest examples use natural undyed wool covering most of the brown palette whilst later ones introduce a richer variety of colors. But again the most distinctive element is the -ayyour- which is woven using the eccentric weft technique. That means that the warp and the weft lines do not cross perpendicularly. This technique is very seldom found in Morocco but for some rare traditional male garment used among the Aït Ouaouzguite and in some areas of the Valley of the Ourika called -akhnif-.  

The textiles from the different Berber sub-goups of the Aït Ouaouzguite Confederation in the region of the Siroua between the Moroccan High and Anti Atlas mountain ranges, such as the Aït Ouarda, the Aït Tamassine, the Aït Ameur, the Aït Khezama, the Ait Oubial or the Aït Abdallah, are traditionally among the most reputed in Morocco. To that end contribute not only the quality of the materials employed, the dexterity of the artisan weavers but also the originality of the techniques used in their flatwoven textiles such as capes or –akhnif- or bags and shepperd and mount blankets –shadoui-, -l´rhomd- or -adil-. For their knotted piled rugs they commonly use the so-called symmetric knot and local sheep wool. In earliest examples the predominant colours are natural undyed white, cream, brown and black sheep wool. Natural black wool is still very highly esteemed due to the top quality of that wool coming from a local sheep breed and because according to Berber’s beliefs it is very effective to ward off evil eye and other bad influences. In not that old examples the colour palette is wider. As to decorative patterns those are clearly tribal though we can find sometimes some resemblance with those found in city examples from Rabat or Salé. That has very much to do with the old and long-lasting links between the Jewish communities of those cities and Aït Ouaouzguite’s ones. When it comes to flatwoven textiles the degrees of quality, originality and excellency are certainly outstanding, particularly among the Aït Ouarda and the Aït Tamassine, being the combination of white and black stripes of different width  and the use of the –shadaoui- or  weft-twining technique some of the more remarkable features. True pieces of tribal art at its best not to be missed.       

A lively example of the Berber spirit, creative and thrifty. Nothing is wasted. This artisan piece is made on a plastic raffia sac where a series of re-used textile materials have been sewn and woven. The result is as stunning as this, both in terms of design and combination of colors. Pieces like this are used on a daily basis at home as kitchen or courtyard mats and as playgrounds for infants, the plastic surface acting as insulator. 1970's-80's.

A sublime old Berber bag or -l'rhomd- from the tribe of the Aït or Ait Ouaouzguite inhabiting the Siroua mountains in Morocco. Flatwoven wool combining wonderful colours and featuring a characteristic array of geometric motifs. These motifs are not only decorative but serve a more important purpose such a protecting its owner from bad influences and ward evil eye off. The use of this kind of pieces is described in Niloo Imami Paydar et al's "The Fabric of Moroccan Life": "The type known as l'rhomd was used like a sea-bag. The opening of the bag is opposite the long carrying  strap. This opening was then attached to the end of the strap. One hand was passed through the loop and the bag was thrown over the shoulder. The shepherds used simple bags of this kind as food bags when roaming many weeks with the herds. But richly decorated pieces were not exposed to every day use; they were luxury pieces reserved for special ocassions, sometimes only produced for marriages". This one is certainly a dowry piece. The quality of its execution makes it one-of-a-kind and true collectors' piece.

A most original sample of the Berber spirit, creative and thrifty. Nothing is wasted. This artisan piece is made on a plastic raffia sac where a series of re-used textile materials have been sewn and woven. The result is as spectacular as this, both in terms of design and combination of colors. Pieces like this are used on a daily basis at home as kitchen or courtyard mats and as playgrounds for infants, the plastic surface acting as insulator. A true -avant garde- piece of tribal art. 1970's-80's.

A stunning example of the Berber spirit, creative and thrifty. Nothing is wasted. This artisan piece is made on a plastic raffia sac where a series of re-used textile materials have been sewn and woven. The result is as spectacular as this, both in terms of design and combination of colors. Pieces like this are used on a daily basis at home as kitchen or courtyard mats and as playgrounds for infants, the plastic surface acting as insulator. A piece that is a piece of art on its own right. 1970's-80's.

An outstanding sample of the Berber spirit, creative and thrifty. Nothing is wasted. This artisan piece is made on a plastic raffia sac where a series of re-used textile materials have been sewn and woven. The result is as remarkable as this, both in terms of design and combination of colors. Pieces like this are used on a daily basis at home as kitchen or courtyard mats and as playgrounds for infants, the plastic surface acting as insulator. Very original. 1970's-80's.

An old saddle bag from the Zaiane that is a true gem. The Zaiane or Zaïane inhabit areas of the Middle Atlas mountain range in Morocco. Their textiles are well-known for their quality and design and the richness of their palette. This is an outstanding example. It combines naturally dyed hand-woven wool, showing the characteristic motifs of this group that reflect the vastness of Berber symbology, cotton fringes and silk tassels. Certainly a collectors' piece. It is would be madness to let it go. 1930's.

An absolutely covetable old flat woven tend or -jaima- band from the Berber tribe of the Zaïane inhabiting the Middle Atlas Mountains in Morocco. It is made of sheep wool, goat hair and cotton. It features the wonderful work and rich design for which the Zaïane are deservingly among the most reputed weavers in Morocco. The decoration included a wide array of Berber geometric motifs, all of them having a strong prophylactic purpose, such as diamond grid, zigzags, triangles, etc.  These kind of bands are used as an element to brace the walls and other parts of the traditional -jaima- and prevent collapsing. Superb.

A great old flat woven tend or -jaima- band from the Berber tribe of the Zaïane inhabiting the Middle Atlas Mountains in Morocco. It is made of sheep wool, goat hair and cotton. It features the wonderful work and rich design for which the Zaïane are deservingly among the most reputed weavers in Morocco. The decoration included a wide array of Berber geometric motifs, all of them having a strong prophylactic purpose, such as diamond grid, zigzags, triangles, etc.  These kind of bands are used as an element to brace the walls and other parts of the traditional -jaima- and prevent collapsing. Extremely decorative piece of ethnographic art.

A woman's stunning old wool and silk woven belt -hzam- from the Berber tribe of the Aït Ouarda a sub-group pf the Aït Ouaozguite inhabiting the region of the Siroua between the High Atlas and the Anti Atlas mountains in Morocco. They get the material for their characteristic woven pieces from a breed of sheep indigenous to that area and well-adapted to the harsh environment. Ouaouzguite women have always being reputed for their outstanding weaving skills and inventive combining color, textures and motifs. Natural dyes for their pieces were obtained from flowers, roots, etc. growing in the surroundings and indigo was often obtained from the not far away Dades Valley. The use of this latter dye was very demanding and complex but was mastered soon by Jewish members of the community. Broad wowen belts like this one were used on a daily basis by the women of the group. This one though is made of a richer material, silk, and features a wonderful combination of natural dyed colours as well as decorative motifs including the protective eye and other anthropomorphic figures and symbols, often related to fertility and maternity. A piece to grab.

A great woman's old woven belt -hzam- from the Berber tribe of the Aït Ouaozguite inhabiting the region of the Siroua between the High Atlas and the Anti Atlas mountains in Morocco. They get the material for their characteristic woven pieces from a breed of sheep indigenous to that area and well-adapted to the harsh environment. Ouaouzguite women have always being reputed for their outstanding weaving skills and inventive combining color, textures and motifs. Natural dyes for their pieces were obtained from flowers, roots, etc. growing in the surroundings and indigo was often obtained from the not far away Dades Valley. The use of this latter dye was very demanding and complex but was mastered soon by Jewish members of the community. Broad wowen belts like this one were used on a daily basis by the women of the group. This one features a wonderful combination of natural dyed colours and decorative motifs including the protective eye and other anthropomorphic figures and symbols, often related to fertility and maternity. It also shows areas where the main motif is a serie of bands against a dark background which is also very typical in other pieces of this group such as food bags -adil-. A piece to enjoy.

A woman's beautiful old wool and cotton woven belt -hzam- from the Berber tribe of the Aït Ouaozguite inhabiting the region of the Siroua between the High Atlas and the Anti Atlas mountains in Morocco. They get the material for their characteristic woven pieces from a breed of sheep indigenous to that area and well-adapted to the harsh environment. Ouaouzguite women have always being reputed for their outstanding weaving skills and inventive combining color, textures and motifs. Natural dyes for their pieces were obtained from flowers, roots, etc. growing in the surroundings and indigo was often obtained from the not far away Dades Valley. The use of this latter dye was very demanding and complex but was mastered soon by Jewish members of the community. Broad wowen belts like this one were used on a daily basis by the women of the group. This one features a wonderful combination of natural dyed colours and decorative motifs including the protective eye and other anthropomorphic figures and symbols, often related to fertility and maternity. A truly appealing piece. 

Boujad Berber carpets come from the plains east of the imperial city of Marrakech in Morocco. The artisans would travel to the souks of this city to sell their carpets. The better known Berber group inhabiting the area from which these carpets come from are the Beni Moussa. These handmade medium wool pile knotted rugs bear some resemblance to those from the region of Hafouz. They made use a wide variety of colors and loose geometric patterns or play with different shades of the same palette such as reds, pinks and any other colours. In any event always a pleasure for the senses.

A fantastic old shoulder or head scarf or - agounoun- from the Berber group of the Aït Hadiddou in the Central High Atlas in Morocco. The -agounoun- was a part of a bride's attire at her wedding and it was used as a shawl at the top of the shoulders or head under additional garments and headgear. Then she would not probably use it anymore in her lifetime. It was usually made from an old piece of wool that was then tie-dyed in two colours. A wonderful and authentic ethnic treasure to enjoy and cherish. Mid-XXth century or earlier.

A most original old Berber headscarf -Ilbed n´Tislatin or Ilbed n´Tghri- from the group of the Aït Atta in the Moroccan High Atlas. Tie-dyed wool. Though it is sometimes described as a bread cover its use is quite different. It is worn during the wedding celebrations as a headscarf tied with green silk straps and silver chains. It is very likely that its owner only wore it once at her wedding. The design of this particular piece is very original which makes it very interesting. Mid-XXth century or earlier. 

A great old Berber headscarf -Ilbed n´Tislatin or Ilbed n´Tghri- from the group of the Aït Atta in the Moroccan High Atlas. Tie-dyed wool. Though it is sometimes described as a bread cover its use is quite different. It is worn during the wedding celebrations as a headscarf tied with green silk straps and silver chains. It is very likely that its owner only wore it once at her wedding. A fantastic piece of ethnic tribal art. Mid-XXth century or earlier. 

An eye-catching old Berber headscarf -Ilbed n´Tislatin or Ilbed n´Tghri- from the group of the Aït Atta in the Moroccan High Atlas. Tie-dyed wool. Though it is sometimes described as a bread cover its use is quite different. It is worn during the wedding celebrations as a headscarf tied with green silk straps and silver chains. It is very likely that its owner only wore it once at her wedding. A true piece of Berber art. Mid-XXth century or earlier. 

A superb old veil or shawl made of cotton and silk embroidery from the Berber group of the Aït Ouaouzguit inhabiting in the Moroccan Anti Atlas. Wonderdul embroidery work. Similar samples, yet not that old, may be seen in M.R. Rabaté et al: -Berber Costumes of Morocco. Traditional Patterns- pag. 67, 69, 173-175. Early XXth century.    

A great old shoulder or head scarf or - agounoun- from the Berber group of the Aït Hadiddou in Central High Atlas in Morocco. The -agounoun- was a part of a bride's attire at her her wedding and it was used as a shawl at the top of the shoulders or head under additional garments and headgear. Then she would not probably use it anymore in her lifetime. It was usually made from an old piece of wool that was then tie-dyed in basically two colours. The characteristic design of a large circle surrounded by smaller oners would be referred to a the -stars and the moon-. A lovely piece of ethnic art. Mid-XXth century or earlier.

A great old shoulder or head scarf or - agounoun- from the Berber group of the Aït Hadiddou in Central High Atlas in Morocco. The -agounoun- was a part of a bride's attire at her her wedding and it was used as a shawl at the top of the shoulders or head under additional garments and headgear. Then she would not probably use it anymore in her lifetime. It was usually made from an old piece of wool that was then tie-dyed in basically two colours. The characteristic design of a large circle surrounded by smaller oners would be referred to a the -stars and the moon-. A lovely piece of ethnic art. Mid-XXth century or earlier.

An appealing woman's shawl, cape or -handira- from the High Atlas, possibly from the Beni or Aït Mguild in the Middle Atlas mountain range in Morocco or from neighbouring groups, though the use of these capes has extended to some areas of the High Atlas as well. It combines handwoven natural undyed wool, silk and cotton. It features very distinctive decorative stripes and long cotton fringes or pile. Nowadays it would be used during special gatherings and festivities where the women, dancing together, make a magical sound by rattling their jewellery. 1960´s.

A beautiful woman's shawl, cape or -handira- showing the arrangement of stripes and colours of the Berber tribe of the Aït Brahim belonging to the group of the Aït Haddidou, in the Moroccan High Atlas. Handwoven wool. Natural dyes. It is used not only in festive gatherings but also daily as a garment to withstand the freezing winter temperatures in the Atlas. It is fastened with textile straps or with fibulae. If the woman is married then she would also combine it with a very distinctive pointed headgear. 1950´s.

A beautiful Berber haïk or shawl from the Moroccan High Atlas. Handmade. Woven natural undyed wool. The combination of browns and creams as well as the distribution of the stripes are exquisite and grant it a very elegant tribal character. A haïk or -tahraoukht-, is an outer garment used by the different Berber tribes as part of their attire. It may come in many sizes and the way to wear it can vary a lot depending on the area and the needs of the wearer, for example, as a cape or as a sort of veil to cover head and face. 1960's. 

An appealing woman's shawl, cape or -handira- featuring the distinctive colours and stripes of one of the three fractions of the Berber tribe of the Aït Morrhad in the High Atlas mountain range in Morocco. Handwoven wool. Natural dyes. It is used to withstand the cold winter temperatures in the Atlas and during festive gatherings. 1950´s.