Jewels

A beautiful pair of Berber silver bangles featuring a brilliant work of granulation. This kind of work is very characteristic of the deep south of Morocco (Goulimine), Mauritania and vast areas of Western Sahara. 

A beautiful and elegant old silver and carnelian agate ring from Afghanistan. Carnelian beads from the Indian subcontinent are documented in deposits as disparate and distant as the Niger basin or Mesopotamia and in times as old as the Sumerian civilization.

A very fancy Bohemian glass beads necklace from the 1920’. Glass masters from Bohemia and Moravia have been producing glass beads from more than ten centuries. Of course also during the European colonial period exporting large quantities of trade beads. Very precious for locals in West Africa for its fancy colors and numerous shapes. Elegant!

We use the term trade beads to refer to the European made glass beads that were used by the European merchants and explorers in the trade in Africa as from the 15th century and continued during their colonial expansion.

The history of trade beads in Africa takes us then to the 15th century and the arrival of the Euro-pean, mainly the Portuguese, to the coasts of West Africa. The European discovered quite soon how much the people they met there fancied beads and saw they an opportunity for trade. Amongst the beads that captivated the African people most were glass beads since the techniques for their making had not yet been developed locally. The locals fell for the precious and colorful glass beads such as Venetian millefiori or chevron beads that the European traders had on offer and bartered them for commodities such as precious woods, ivory, gold and even used, ignomi-niously, in the slave trade. The increasing demand in Africa of European made glass beads conti-nued quite until the first half of the 20th century and it had a boosting effect in the production in cities such as Venice which glass beads became very popular and coveted.

An eye-catching and fancy Kuchi necklace from Afghanistan. It is made of beautifully chained metal beads and glass cabochons. The Kuchi people, from the Persian -koch- meaning migration, are Afghan pashtoons nomads divided in a number of tribes that inhabit areas of Afghanistan and, to a lesser extent, Pakistan. Their jewellery has become extremely popular among those practising oriental dances and belly-dancing.

A superb pair of old silver hoops from the Hazara, an ethnic minority group of persian origin that lives in central and Northeastern Afghanistan and in Northwestern Pakistan. This sample shows outstanding engraving and it is rimmed with delicate granulation work. Large size. It probably comes from the Nuristan region in Afghanistan or from Pakistan. An example of this quality and age are very hard to come by and have become very much sought after. Early XXth century.

An interesting old Berber piece from Southern Morocco. The upper part is a cluster of red coral branches, an assortment of beads of glass, silver and stone and old coins. This arrangement protects a small leather amulet (-gris-gris-) hidden underneath. The coins are two twenty-cent silver coins from the French emperor Napoleon III of 1867 and two one-dirham silver coins from Meknes from the XVIIIth century. The lower part is a fragment of iron and brass mail or mesh. A rare headornament also found in Southern Algeria. Outstanding and rare piece from the third quarter of the XIXth century.

A great set of four ancient Islamic lampwork glass beads featuring a great spiral/feather pattern high relief decoration in a captivating yellow and whitish colors on a great black core. Full of character and showing a great patina considering their age.

The larger bead is approximately 15mm (long) by 9mm (diameter).

When referring to Islamic beads we follow bead expert Robert K. Liu’s description in Ornament Magazine: “The term Islamic Period Glass Beads is used, similarly to Roman Period Beads, to classify groups of ornaments from specific geographic areas and time periods, with recognizable characteristics including patterns and techniques. In the case of Islamic glass beads we know they originated in the Middle East and flourished mostly between the seventh and twelfth centuries. Their designs display a wide mix of techniques and styles: millefiori/mosaic (including pierced mosaic pad beads), trailed, filigreed, combed, fused rods, segmented/blown, folded (an Islamic innovation, Holland and Holland 2006) and those derived from amulet shapes, like charmcase beads with loops.” Islamic glass beads travelled from their sources of production in the Middle and Near East together with the expansion of Islam to North Africa, Southern Europe (Spain), India and the Far East and they reached areas well beyond Islam’s actual limits of expansion such as Northern Europe. They also flowed into Sub-Saharan Africa, where they were valued and cherished for centuries in the Malian ancient kingdoms as a symbol of status and played an important role in the communities’ rites and ceremonies such a burials, initiation or dowries.

Lamp working is one of the main techniques for the making of glass beads. Lamp or lamp work beads were made using glass canes that were reheated to a temperature of up to 1000 ºC by means of a blowtorch or blowlamp and which were then wound onto a coated iron rod to avoid the molten glass from sticking to the metal. The beads produced by the artisan by these means could be then further decorated by re-heating the bead using the same lamp work method and applying colored glass rods or glass cane inserts to the surface of the bead creating an endless variation of patterns and making of each bead one of its own.   

An exquisite old silver, red coral and turquoise bracelet. It features a wonderful chiselled and engraved decoration and most appealing rosettes ornated with coral and turquoise cabochons. Its design takes us to the pashtoon tribes in Northern Pakistan and Afghanistan. The quality of the chiselling, engraving and granulation on this piece is outstanding, elegant and well-balanced. First half of the XXth century.

A great old Moroccan Berber silver bracelet from the Occidental Anti-Atlas. Beautiful incised decoration and very nice patina.

A Berber silver and enamel bracelet from the city of Tiznit in South Morocco. Ornated with blue, green and yellow enamel. Very good quality of work. Adjustable size.

A lovely old Berber Tunisian Hand of Fatima, -khamsa- or -khomeissa- silver pendant. The word -khamsa- means literally five in arabic, a number to which Berber beliefs grant prophylactic effects. It affords protection to its wearer as a poweful talisman that wards evil off. Very nice worn patina.

An old Berber silver talisman known as the Southern Cross or -Boghdod- from the Moroccan pre-Sahara Desert. The granulation work suggests some Mauritanian influence. As a former Spanish ambassador to Morocco Jorge Dezcallar de Mazarredo explains in -Joyas Bereberes de la colección Jorge Dezcallar- the parents would present their children with a Southern Cross upon coming of legal age saying: -Son, I give you the four directions-. It is a powerful talisman for protection as it benefits from the power of  the number five ( four directions and the central element pointing above).

A nice set of old Afghan earrings made of old silver and coral beads.They are further ornated with small cabochons of turquoise and coral. Joyful and great to wear.

A wonderful pair of silver earrings engraved with simple Tuareg motifs from Niger. We have not really seen many like these in our modest tour. Truly a collector's piece! Unfortunately one of the pins is defective, although it would not be difficult to repair it.

Simple yet great Tuareg silver and glass ring (tisek). It features a nice engraved side decoration. It is also ocassionally used as a hair ornament. Great patina. The Tuareg are a nomadic Berber (amazigh) group that lives in the Sahara Desert. Mid-XXth century.

It can be used like pendant.

A lovely necklace made of old recycled -pâte de verre- discs from Ghana. 

A lovely old silver ring with ten small colored glass cabochons and a bigger central one with a agate carnelian stone. Southern India inspirations. The Kuchi nomads (of Pasthun ethnicity) cross the vast territory that goes from Iran to India, so their creations are always rich fusions of different styles. Unique.

Five authentic ancient beads from the Islamic Period (8th to 12th centuries). Three of them showing spiral motif and the other two are eye beads. Marvelous patina after centuries of being buried, including iridescence on one of them.

The central bead measures 20mm long and 8mm in diameter.

When referring to Islamic beads we follow bead expert Robert K. Liu’s description in Ornament Magazine: “The term Islamic Period Glass Beads is used, similarly to Roman Period Beads, to classify groups of ornaments from specific geographic areas and time periods, with recognizable characteristics including patterns and techniques. In the case of Islamic glass beads we know they originated in the Middle East and flourished mostly between the seventh and twelfth centuries. Their designs display a wide mix of techniques and styles: millefiori/mosaic (including pierced mo-saic pad beads), trailed, filigreed, combed, fused rods, segmented/blown, folded (an Islamic inno-vation, Holland and Holland 2006) and those derived from amulet shapes, like charmcase beads with loops.” Islamic glass beads travelled from their sources of production in the Middle and Near East together with the expansion of Islam to North Africa, Southern Europe (Spain), India and the Far East and they reached areas well beyond Islam’s actual limits of expansion such as Northern Europe. They also flowed into Sub-Saharan Africa, where they were valued and cherished for centuries in the Malian ancient kingdoms as a symbol of status and played an important role in the communities’ rites and ceremonies such a burials, initiation or dowries.

A lovely set of eight old translucent glass faceted monochrome beads and a blue oval islamic one. The first would have been produced in the eighteenth century in the city of Amsterdam in order to imitate rock crystal and other precious stones in the trade with the African and American colonies. The red bead with white nucleus could be Venetian. The blue oval one is much older, quite similar beads have been found in fortresses of the Bizantine period in Albania. Beautiful range of colors.

Central oval bead measures 16x11x7mm.

The Dutch beadmaking industry seems to have a short but intense history. Since the SXVI, large quantities of glass beads were produced in the city of Amsterdam thanks to the incorporation of Venetian beadmakers who brought in the necessary techniques and tools to supply Dutch merchants in the incipient trade with the colonies in Africa, Asia and the New World.

We use the term trade beads to refer to the European made glass beads that were used by the European merchants and explorers in the trade in Africa as from the 15th century and continued during their colonial expansion.

The history of trade beads in Africa takes us then to the 15th century and the arrival of the European, mainly the Portuguese, to the coasts of West Africa. The European discovered quite soon how much the people they met there fancied beads and saw they an opportunity for trade. Amongst the beads that captivated the African people most were glass beads since the techniques for their making had not yet been developed locally. The locals fell for the precious and colorful glass beads such as Venetian millefiori or chevron beads that the European traders had on offer and bartered them for commodities such as precious woods, ivory, gold and even used, ignominiously, in the slave trade. The increasing demand in Africa of European made glass beads continued quite until the first half of the 20th century and it had a boosting effect in the production in cities such as Venice which glass beads became very popular and coveted.

A lovely selection of eighteen mixed Venetian trade beads. Circa late 18th to early 20th centuries. Highlights three chevrons and ten “end of the day” beads.

Central bead measures 14mm in diameter

The so called “End of the Day” beads, as the story goes, would be made at the end of the working day by the artisans using the leftovers of other beads made during that day. The result is as pop and modern as you can see.

European glass chevron trade beads were certainly the first to be traded in Africa as early as the 15th century. They show a very characteristic “Rosetta” or “star” layered decoration attained by giving form to glass in a star shaped moulds. Layer after layer are applied to form a cane, which is then cut into cylinders and ground to show the alternated chevron or star layers. They were first produced in the Venetian island of Murano at the Barovier glass factory. The rarest examples are very much coveted and they are quite commonly tagged by the number of layers they show.

We use the term trade beads to refer to the European made glass beads that were used by the European merchants and explorers in the trade in Africa as from the 15th century and continued during their colonial expansion. The history of trade beads in Africa takes us then to the 15th century and the arrival of the European, mainly the Portuguese, to the coasts of West Africa. The European discovered quite soon how much the people they met there fancied beads and saw they an opportunity for trade. Amongst the beads that captivated the African people most were glass beads since the techniques for their making had not yet been developed locally. The locals fell for the precious and colorful glass beads such as Venetian millefiori or chevron beads that the European traders had on offer and bartered them for commodities such as precious woods, ivory, gold and even used, ignominiously, in the slave trade. The increasing demand in Africa of European made glass beads continued quite until the first half of the 20th century and it had a boosting effect in the production in cities such as Venice which glass beads became very popular and coveted.

The model of these thirty-three beautiful Venetian trade beads is without any doubt among those most popular in barter trade in West Africa. They were made at artisan workshops in Venice from the mid-1800s to the first third of the 19th century using the lamp work technique. The very typical eye or dotted decoration classes them as eye beads. The combination of white dots on a black background, though there are other combination of colors, made them known in the trade as “black and white skunk” as they reminded of the fur of this animal. In Spain they where also known as “Moorish” beads and where sometimes found as part of the jewellery arrangements of traditional “charra” jewellery from the province of Salamanca.

The larger bead measures approximately 12mm (long) and 14 mm (diameter).

We use the term trade beads to refer to the European made glass beads that were used by the European merchants and explorers in the trade in Africa as from the 15th century and continued during their colonial expansion. The history of trade beads in Africa takes us then to the 15th century and the arrival of the European, mainly the Portuguese, to the coasts of West Africa. The European discovered quite soon how much the people they met there fancied beads and saw they an opportunity for trade. Amongst the beads that captivated the African people most were glass beads since the techniques for their making had not yet been developed locally. The locals fell for the precious and colorful glass beads such as Venetian millefiori or chevron beads that the European traders had on offer and bartered them for commodities such as precious woods, ivory, gold and even used, ignominiously, in the slave trade. The increasing demand in Africa of European made glass beads continued quite until the first half of the 20th century and it had a boosting effect in the production in cities such as Venice which glass beads became very popular and coveted.

Eye glass beads are beads which main feature are circular decorations that remind of an eye made using lamp work, inset or mosaic techniques. One of the best examples of eye beads are found among Islamic beads mostly blue or green with white eyes as well as eye dotted Venetian glass beads (skunk). The eye decoration may be a simple eye or a number of them scattered on the surface of the bead, they may be plain ones or concentric ones using different colors. Eye beads may also present some linear trails, ziz-zag or floral decoration. Eye beads have been very much valued for centuries, actually they still are, among not only Islamic people but also African people as they were regarded as strong amulets to avert the evil eye and for their alleged prophylactic and magical properties.

Lamp working is one of the main techniques for the making of glass beads. Lamp or lamp work beads were made using glass canes that were reheated to a temperature of up to 1000 ºC by means of a blowtorch or blowlamp and which were then wound onto a coated iron rod to avoid the molten glass from sticking to the metal. The beads produced by the artisan by these means could be then further decorated by re-heating the bead using the same lamp work method and applying colored glass rods or glass cane inserts to the surface of the bead creating an endless variation of patterns and making of each bead one of its own.

A very original large silver pendant from the nomadic group of the Peul or Fulani in Mali. Its design reminds somehow of certain gold pieces found among certain groups in Senegal. Fantastic goldsmith work!

Three truly awesome, beautiful and sought after old Mauritanian silver beads (agrabb al-fadda). These beads are hollow and made by welding very thin martelé silver plaques. In this case they also feature a lovely filigree silver lace decoration. Early 20th century.

Central bead measures 17mm in diameter and lateral beads lenght is 28mm.

Thirteen outstanding silver old beads with traces of gilding bath. Featuring an intricate work of granulation and filigree very characteristic of Mauritanians goldsmiths. Very rare to find especially in good condition. Beautiful patina. Beginning of the 20th century or earlier.

Larger bead measures 9mm in diameter and the smallest 5mm.

Beautiful and rare vintage rhomboidal gilding bath silver pendant featuring the characteristic granulated and filigree work of the Mauritanian goldsmiths. Mid 20th century

A superb strand of Dutch glass trade beads popularly called "moon beads" due to the beautiful opalescent reflection they produce to the light. They were among the trade beads produced in the Netherlands in the 18th century and were widely popular among the Dogons in Mali and also in Ethiopia.

The Dutch beadmaking industry seems to have a short but intense history. Since the SXVI, large quantities of glass beads were produced in the city of Amsterdam thanks to the incorporation of Venetian beadmakers who brought in the necessary techniques and tools to supply Dutch merchants in the incipient trade with the colonies in Africa, Asia and the New World.

We use the term trade beads to refer to the European made glass beads that were used by the European merchants and explorers in the trade in Africa as from the 15th century and continued during their colonial expansion.

The history of trade beads in Africa takes us then to the 15th century and the arrival of the European, mainly the Portuguese, to the coasts of West Africa. The European discovered quite soon how much the people they met there fancied beads and saw they an opportunity for trade. Amongst the beads that captivated the African people most were glass beads since the techniques for their making had not yet been developed locally. The locals fell for the precious and colorful glass beads such as Venetian millefiori or chevron beads that the European traders had on offer and bartered them for commodities such as precious woods, ivory, gold and even used, ignominiously, in the slave trade. The increasing demand in Africa of European made glass beads continued quite until the first half of the 20th century and it had a boosting effect in the production in cities such as Venice which glass beads became very popular and coveted.

A very original Mauritanian vintage and old glass, stone and resin beads necklace. Mauritania’s fascination for beads has in this colorful necklace a good example. Venice and Bohemia glass trade beads, outstanding the four small Chevrons. Four beautiful rhomboidal “African amber” resin larger beads, and the triangular central pendant, a most probably Czech imitation in glass of the Idar-Oberstain carnelians.

The triangular central pendant measures 26x27mm 

Superb set of 19 phenolic resin beads, bakelite or Catalin, commonly known as "faux amber" or "African amber". They were very popular in the 20s and 30s until the arrival of World War II cut down its production and partly because of that today they are so scarce and appreciated. In Northern and Western Africa they were used as a substitute for amber or Copal in their traditional necklaces. Nice range of ocher and red colors. Notice the twelve hand faceted disk beads.

The large central bead measures 47mm in diameter and 26mm in width. The red disk measures 19x9mm.

A precious set of nine opaque white glass trade beads made in The Netherlands in the 17th century. Popularly known as “Dutch Dogon” due to the fact that this Malian tribe highly used them and would consider them as fertility amulets because of their egg shape. (Dogon eggs)

The central bead measures 24x24mm

These antique wound glass trade beads are commonly known as Dutch Dogon. The reason for that is that they were first made in The Netherlands and it would become extremely popular among the Dogon people in Mali. They are quite large in size and the are usually found in bkue color though they were also made in white, black and brown. The first ones known date as back as the XVIIth century. Very attractive and eye-catching.

The Dutch beadmaking industry seems to have a short but intense history. Since the SXVI, large quantities of glass beads were produced in the city of Amsterdam thanks to the incorporation of Venetian beadmakers who brought in the necessary techniques and tools to supply Dutch merchants in the incipient trade with the colonies in Africa, Asia and the New World.

We use the term trade beads to refer to the European made glass beads that were used by the European merchants and explorers in the trade in Africa as from the 15th century and continued during their colonial expansion.

The history of trade beads in Africa takes us then to the 15th century and the arrival of the European, mainly the Portuguese, to the coasts of West Africa. The European discovered quite soon how much the people they met there fancied beads and saw they an opportunity for trade. Amongst the beads that captivated the African people most were glass beads since the techniques for their making had not yet been developed locally. The locals fell for the precious and colorful glass beads such as Venetian millefiori or chevron beads that the European traders had on offer and bartered them for commodities such as precious woods, ivory, gold and even used, ignominiously, in the slave trade. The increasing demand in Africa of European made glass beads continued quite until the first half of the 20th century and it had a boosting effect in the production in cities such as Venice which glass beads became very popular and coveted.

This is a great set of fourteen antique Islamic glass eye lamp work beads sourced in Mali in the region south of the Niger river between the cities of Mopti and Gao. Though they have been buried for hundreds of years they show a nice condition and a wonderful patina and iridescence. Theire colors range from different shades of blue from dark blue (almost black) to aquamarine. Some of them show some band decoration which adds to their appeal.

The dimensions range from a diameter of 15 mm for the larger bead to 11mm for the smaller one.

When referring to Islamic beads we follow bead expert Robert K. Liu’s description in Ornament Magazine: “The term Islamic Period Glass Beads is used, similarly to Roman Period Beads, to classify groups of ornaments from specific geographic areas and time periods, with recognizable characteristics including patterns and techniques. In the case of Islamic glass beads we know they originated in the Middle East and flourished mostly between the seventh and twelfth centuries. Their designs display a wide mix of techniques and styles: millefiori/mosaic (including pierced mosaic pad beads), trailed, filigreed, combed, fused rods, segmented/blown, folded (an Islamic innovation, Holland and Holland 2006) and those derived from amulet shapes, like charmcase beads with loops.” Islamic glass beads travelled from their sources of production in the Middle and Near East together with the expansion of Islam to North Africa, Southern Europe (Spain), India and the Far East and they reached areas well beyond Islam’s actual limits of expansion such as Northern Europe. They also flowed into Sub-Saharan Africa, where they were valued and cherished for centuries in the Malian ancient kingdoms as a symbol of status and played an important role in the communities’ rites and ceremonies such a burials, initiation or dowries.

Eye glass beads are beads which main feature are circular decorations that remind of an eye made using lamp work, inset or mosaic techniques. One of the best examples of eye beads are found among Islamic beads mostly blue or green with white eyes as well as eye dotted Venetian glass beads (skunk). The eye decoration may be a simple eye or a number of them scattered on the surface of the bead, they may be plain ones or concentric ones using different colors. Eye beads may also present some linear trails, ziz-zag or floral decoration. Eye beads have been very much valued for centuries, actually they still are, among not only Islamic people but also African people as they were regarded as strong amulets to avert the evil eye and for their alleged prophylactic and magical properties.

A precious set of nine old translucent glass faceted monochrome beads. They would have been produced in the eighteenth century by in the city of Amsterdam in order to imitate rock crystal and other precious stones in the trade with the African and American colonies. Notice the red bead with white nucleus that could be Venetian. Beautiful range of mauve colors.

The Dutch beadmaking industry seems to have a short but intense history. Since the SXVI, large quantities of glass beads were produced in the city of Amsterdam thanks to the incorporation of Venetian beadmakers who brought in the necessary techniques and tools to supply Dutch merchants in the incipient trade with the colonies in Africa, Asia and the New World.

We use the term trade beads to refer to the European made glass beads that were used by the European merchants and explorers in the trade in Africa as from the 15th century and continued during their colonial expansion.

The history of trade beads in Africa takes us then to the 15th century and the arrival of the European, mainly the Portuguese, to the coasts of West Africa. The European discovered quite soon how much the people they met there fancied beads and saw they an opportunity for trade. Amongst the beads that captivated the African people most were glass beads since the techniques for their making had not yet been developed locally. The locals fell for the precious and colorful glass beads such as Venetian millefiori or chevron beads that the European traders had on offer and bartered them for commodities such as precious woods, ivory, gold and even used, ignominiously, in the slave trade. The increasing demand in Africa of European made glass beads continued quite until the first half of the 20th century and it had a boosting effect in the production in cities such as Venice which glass beads became very popular and coveted.

A precious ancient turquoise faience bead found on the banks of the Niger River between the cities of Gao and Timbuktu. Its most probable origin is Persia or Egypt, and it would have arrived through the trans-Saharan caravan route at the time of the expansion of Islam. Between the tenth and twelfth centuries.

Faience is a sintered-quartz ceramic displaying surface vitrification which creates a bright lustre of various colours, with blue-green being the most common. Defined as a “material made from powdered quartz covered with a true vitreous coating, usually in a transparent blue or green isotropic glass," faience is distinct from the crystalline compound Egyptian blue. Notably, faience is considerably more porous than glass proper and can be cast in molds to create vessels or objects. Although not properly pottery, as (until late periods) it contains no clay and instead contains the major elemental components of glass (silica), faience is frequently discussed in surveys of ancient pottery, as in stylistic and art-historical terms objects made in it are closer to pottery styles than ancient Egyptian glass.

When referring to Islamic beads we follow bead expert Robert K. Liu’s description in Ornament Magazine: “The term Islamic Period Glass Beads is used, similarly to Roman Period Beads, to classify groups of ornaments from specific geographic areas and time periods, with recognizable characteristics including patterns and techniques. In the case of Islamic glass beads we know they originated in the Middle East and flourished mostly between the seventh and twelfth centuries. Their designs display a wide mix of techniques and styles: millefiori/mosaic (including pierced mo-saic pad beads), trailed, filigreed, combed, fused rods, segmented/blown, folded (an Islamic inno-vation, Holland and Holland 2006) and those derived from amulet shapes, like charmcase beads with loops.” Islamic glass beads travelled from their sources of production in the Middle and Near East together with the expansion of Islam to North Africa, Southern Europe (Spain), India and the Far East and they reached areas well beyond Islam’s actual limits of expansion such as Northern Europe. They also flowed into Sub-Saharan Africa, where they were valued and cherished for centuries in the Malian ancient kingdoms as a symbol of status and played an important role in the communities’ rites and ceremonies such a burials, initiation or dowries.

Five beautiful old glass trade beads made in Europe in the eighteenth century and brought to West Africa for commercial trade. All of them probably Dutch except for the faceted, that would be of Czech manufacture (Bohemia) and popularly known as Russian Blue. These blue beads are very much to the taste of the Dogon people of Mali, where they are among the most precious, due in part to the powers attributed to this color by this culture.

The central bead is 16mm long and 20mm in diameter.

These antique wound glass trade beads are commonly known as Dutch Dogon. The reason for that is that they were first made in The Netherlands and it would become extremely popular among the Dogon people in Mali. They are quite large in size and the are usually found in bkue color though they were also made in white, black and brown. The first ones known date as back as the XVIIth century. Very attractive and eye-catching.

We use the term trade beads to refer to the European made glass beads that were used by the European merchants and explorers in the trade in Africa as from the 15th century and continued during their colonial expansion.

The history of trade beads in Africa takes us then to the 15th century and the arrival of the European, mainly the Portuguese, to the coasts of West Africa. The European discovered quite soon how much the people they met there fancied beads and saw they an opportunity for trade. Amongst the beads that captivated the African people most were glass beads since the techniques for their making had not yet been developed locally. The locals fell for the precious and colorful glass beads such as Venetian millefiori or chevron beads that the European traders had on offer and bartered them for commodities such as precious woods, ivory, gold and even used, ignominiously, in the slave trade. The increasing demand in Africa of European made glass beads continued quite until the first half of the 20th century and it had a boosting effect in the production in cities such as Venice which glass beads became very popular and coveted.

A great set of seven antique Islamic translucent glass beads from the medieval ages in nice shades of blue color. They show a great condition regardless of the fact that they have remained buried for hundreds of years. Found in Mali in the region south of the Niger river between the cities of Mopti and Gao. Three of them are round in shape and the four remaining are oval. Quite similar beads to the latter have been found in fortresses of the Bizantine period in Albania.

The central bead has a diameter of 14mm and the longest one measures 19mm.

When referring to Islamic beads we follow bead expert Robert K. Liu’s description in Ornament Magazine: “The term Islamic Period Glass Beads is used, similarly to Roman Period Beads, to classify groups of ornaments from specific geographic areas and time periods, with recognizable characteristics including patterns and techniques. In the case of Islamic glass beads we know they originated in the Middle East and flourished mostly between the seventh and twelfth centuries. Their designs display a wide mix of techniques and styles: millefiori/mosaic (including pierced mosaic pad beads), trailed, filigreed, combed, fused rods, segmented/blown, folded (an Islamic innovation, Holland and Holland 2006) and those derived from amulet shapes, like charmcase beads with loops.” Islamic glass beads travelled from their sources of production in the Middle and Near East together with the expansion of Islam to North Africa, Southern Europe (Spain), India and the Far East and they reached areas well beyond Islam’s actual limits of expansion such as Northern Europe. They also flowed into Sub-Saharan Africa, where they were valued and cherished for centuries in the Malian ancient kingdoms as a symbol of status and played an important role in the communities’ rites and ceremonies such a burials, initiation or dowries.

Superb six layered rosetta or chevron glass bead produced in Venice at the beginning of the XIX century.

Much apreciated by locals in the Sahara for its magical powers they would never be thrown out and could even be broken in pieces for inheritance distribution purposes. Fortunately this bead still is in pretty good condition.

European glass chevron trade beads were certainly the first to be traded in Africa as early the 15th century. They show a very characteristic “rosetta” o “star” layered decoration attained by giving form to glass in star shaped moulds. Layer after layer are applied to form a cane which is then cut in cylinders and ground to show the alternated chevron or star layers. They were first produced in the Venetian island of Murano at the Barovier glass factory. The rarest examples are very much coveted and they are quite commonly tagged by the number of layers they show.

We use the term trade beads to refer to the European made glass beads that were used by the European merchants and explorers in the trade in Africa as from the 15th century and continued during their colonial expansion. The history of trade beads in Africa takes us then to the 15th century and the arrival of the European, mainly the Portuguese, to the coasts of West Africa. The European discovered quite soon how much the people they met there fancied beads and saw they an opportunity for trade. Amongst the beads that captivated the African people most were glass beads since the techniques for their making had not yet been developed locally. The locals fell for the precious and colorful glass beads such as Venetian millefiori or chevron beads that the European traders had on offer and bartered them for commodities such as precious woods, ivory, gold and even used, ignominiously, in the slave trade. The increasing demand in Africa of European made glass beads continued quite until the first half of the 20th century and it had a boosting effect in the production in cities such as Venice which glass beads became very popular and coveted.